![]() I recommend the 309 because of the high nickel will reduce the tendency for cracking. My preferred weld metals for this are plain old E7018, or if money is no object use E309-15 stainless steel stick rod. Weld these in place as you see fit for your own personal design or as close to a traditional shape as you like. Now, with the left over length of track, cut off a small piece for a table and a larger piece for the face. Trim to basic overall length and shape a horn and scallop as recommended in step B. Start off with a much longer piece of track than needed. Carve a pointed horn, grind the hell out of it all to remove the torch cut nicks and grooves with the top flattened, scallop out the front and rear, then scallop out the base pate and you will have a reasonably respectable looking ASO (anvil shaped object). C) Attack it with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch. B) Weld the rounded parts with a medium soft hardfacing welding rod (stick or wire) and grind off until flat and smooth. A) Leave it as is, mount onto a log (maybe drive a few large nails or spikes to keep it in place) and start pounding away. After a bit of train traffic, the tops become much harder. When rails come from the mill, they are differentially Q&T'd on the tops only. These are different than what the buckets themselves are made of (T-1). ![]() Motor grader cutting edges, drowser bars on the cheeks of dozers are also examples of really high strength/wear steels. These manganese steel recipes are designed for impact and wear resistance. But the mill has chemists and knows what they are doing with zillions of $$$ worth of hi-tech equipment to do it with. So, Rail steel is similar to T-1 and AR steels. 5) Yep, the bottom side is softer than the (worn) top side. 4) Unfortunately, they can be a labor of love and time consuming to build. Plus, it's a gonna takes you a one BIG azzed fire to do the job properly. By Q&T, there is the possibility to make it too Brittle. 3) Yes it can be quenched and tempered, but NOT recommended. Typically it is a medium carbon (0.80 max) and Manganese (1.20) steel. 2) All rails are not created equal and are often a proprietary recipe from the owner. 1) IMO they make awesome anvils and can be fabricated to YOUR specific size, weight and configuration. I see a lot of questions and myths about anvils made from Railroad Track. If anyone has any recommendations on clean up and repair of this old anvil then please leave a comment below.Something I wrote for a Newbie's Blacksmithing forum. I quizzed the seller about it’s history but they did not know, having seen it I’m pretty sure it’s constructed from a piece of railway track, the proportions and the way it’s been cut strongly indicate that’s the case.įor a stand, I’ve a work collegue looking me out a suitable round log although it might have been nice to make something out of an old railway sleeper! I also plan to put a coat of paint on the sides and base after those are cleaned up. After cleaning the top with a wirebrush there are some small dints in it, about the size of staples, so I’ll likely give the top a skim with the grinder and some flapdisks. I also gave it a bash with a hammer and it’s got a nice ring to it. I tested it with a file and it’s not been hardened so I might look into doing that once it’s back in shape. When it finally arrived, I eagerly unpacked it. Faversham, Aylsham, Hatfield, Cambridge, Hatfield, Hayes, Hatfield, Enfield, Workshopshed. This allowed me to follow it’s rather convoluted journey. When it was shipped the seller gave me a tracking number. I had the winning bid and paid a fair price for the anvil, a little bit more than a new one of the same weight though. However, I also did not want a 150kg anvil that I’d not be able to move around the workshop easily and that would cost a fortune. I spotted a little anvil on ebay and though it would make a good addition to the Workshopshed.īefore purchasing this, I only had a tiny anvil on the back of my vice and previously when I’ve tried to do simple forging operations (such as making my lift out tongs and pouring shank) it was not big enough to be useful.
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